PROJECTS

that you  may want to try for your shack

(Click Pictures for full size view)

THE "DZE (DIZZY) BOX"

I have a number of keys/paddles/bugs and several rigs. I like to swap my keys among the different rigs.  Since most key jacks are in the back of the transceiver, it was a real hassle to pull out my gear to plug/unplug keys as I changed setups. I decided I wanted a way to easily swap various keys with various rigs so, I came up with a simple control box that consists of switches to let me connect any of 6 keys/paddles/bugs to any of up to 4 rigs.  I call it my “Dizzy Box” or “DZE Box”.  To gather the parts, I ordered the inexpensive triple pole switches, cables with plugs, and some mini jacks for the box from the internet.  I used a Radio Shack project box that I had on hand.  Quite a few solder joints and a few hours later I had a neat CW key switching device that is really enjoyable to use! 

Operation is simple.  Starting with all switches down (off), I simply flip the switch on the top row up to select the key to be used and then do the same on the bottom row to select the rig to be used.  This connects them together.  I can select more than one key/paddle/bug for the current rig by simple switching it on, however the circuit will not allow more than one rig to be “on” at any one time. 

Schematic for a "DZE Box"

Notes: 

•  I used a plastic project box for ease of construction, but any box will work fine. 

•  You can use any type of switches to do the job for you to include LED lighted switches, push button switches, rotary switches or rocker switches.  I chose inexpensive toggle switches.

•  You can change the number of switches to cover the number of keys/paddles/bugs you want to use.  Do the same with the number of rigs that you have you want to use.

•  You could connect all your keys in parallel and eliminate all the key switches, but I preferred not to have all the keys “live” on the desk at one time.  It is simply a matter of preference.

•  I used 3-connector mini-plugs for the rig plugs since all my QRP rigs have this kind of CW key jack.  For my 2 rigs that use a 1/4" plug, I simply use a 1/8" to 1/4" adaptor.  You can change this around to meet your requirements.

•  Use a good quality wire to connect the switches so it will solder easily and not require you to overheat any pin connection while soldering the wire in place. I used a sturdy coated magnet wire which was easy to clean for soldering and easy to run from switch to switch.  (There were no less than 72 solder joints on this project, so I made it as easy as I could!)

•  I mounted the plastic project box on a wide wood base just to give it weight, stability and to improve the looks (see info on this as the next project below).  Depending on what box you use, you may not need or desire to do this.

•  Parts:  (10) Mini 3PDT Toggle Switches ON-ON, (6) 3 conductor jacks for key inputs on back of box, (2) prewired 3 conductor 6’-10’ cables with a mini-plug on each end.  (Cut these cables in half to make (4) cables to go from the box to rigs). Misc. Magnet wire or wire of your choice and a 6”x4” project box is used to wire up the switches.

•  The 2 jacks shown on the front of the DZE BOX at the bottom right of the photo are blanks for future use.  These can be wired to let you connect a “new key” to be tested with any rig, connect a new QRP rig with any key, connect a code practice oscillator with any key for teaching CW, or....

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A PRE-FINISHED BASE FOR YOUR CW KEY AND OTHER PROJECTS

The picture above shows the "DZE BOX" (discussed in the section above) mounted on a finished laminate cherry base rather than the black base originally shown in the first picture.  This cherry base was purchased ready made and finished for only 78 cents!  I got it in a local area Lowes' Home Improvement Store in the Flooring Department. I happened to notice it on display and immediately thought what a nice base it would make for mounting CW keys.  Lowes sells these finished boards as laminate floor samples and they come in a wide range of colors and finishes.  Sizes also vary.  Prices range from $1 to $2 with some as low as 55 cents when they are on sale or closeout.

Most samples have tongue and groove ends so you may want to trim this off, but it only take a minute to do so.  Sand off the ends and sides and then use model paint or a permanent marker pen to color the sides black, brown, oak, or whatever color you may choose.  (Make sure the marker pen is not one with a heavy odor or it can take days to get rid of it!) You can add rubber feet to the base if you wish, but many of the samples I saw had a rubberized backing that was a perfect non-skid surface for desk top use.

You can see from the picture that it has a nice, attractive finish.  I found these items worked very nicely for key bases and other projects such as the "DZE BOX" and the QRP radio tilt stand shown in the next project below.  Check these out at your area Lowes', other similar home supply store, or flooring store.    

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  TFR DESK STAND             Fig 1                    Fig 2                      Fig 3                   Fig 4                        Fig 5                      Fig 6

                                        (Click Pictures for full size view)

A TRAIL FRIENDLY RADIO (TFR) DESK STAND

The QRP rigs known as Trail Friendly Radios (Ten Tec R4020, Elecraft KX-1, PFR-3A, etc) are super little radios for field and home use. These light weight, highly transportable transceivers are made to lie flat on the ground, on your sleeping bag, or on your lap while in the field. However, for Shack, table or desktop use I prefer to have a small tilt stand that will hold my 4020 upright at a good angle for better viewing and access. Here is how I solved this issue quickly, easily and very inexpensively.   

First of all, the oak desk stand sold by Ten Tec is really nice (I have one) and I think it’s reasonable for its high quality, but it’s not very portable for my briefcase based rig shown in the next project, so I decided to see what else I could do. I looked at getting a portable Kindle 'reader stand’ to hold my Ten Tec 4020 upright for easy desktop viewing and use, but these stands cost about $25-$30 with the problem that I can’t test one out to see how well it works with the Ten Tec 4020. I would have to order one and only then would I find out if it fits, so I decided to make something that was small, portable (folds up flat), and something easy to make. After a few sketches I came up with a simple design that uses a couple of those highly finished 98 cent flooring samples from Lowes or Home Depot that I mentioned elsewhere on this page. The flooring samples come in various Cherry, Oak, Walnut or a number of other highly polished finishes to meet your preferences. This stand is easy to make, easy to use, looks nice, and it folds up flat for portable use. The total cost to make is only about $5 even if you have to buy all the parts. In my case, I found I had all the parts on hand so after a 45 minute effort, I was project complete! If you need something like this, modify the basic idea to suit your needs and enjoy!

Parts List:  

•  (2)  4” x 5” (approx size) flooring samples. Pick a finish you like. The pictures above show a "Jatoba" or cherry finish.

•  (2) Small hinges with short screws (so they won’t punch all the way thru the wood and come out the other side.

•  (1) small cable clamp and heavy piece of hard drawn aluminum ground wire (or coat hanger) for the back support arm.

•  Small pack of clear soft rubber pads/feet to prevent sliding.

The pictures will likely show most Hams all that's needed to know to make one of these, but here are some tips on putting it together. 

1.  Holding the floor samples with the finished side facing you and the unfinished exposed flange on the right, cut off this exposed wood flange only (these were on the right side of my samples). Be careful not to damage the edge's finish. If you put these in a vice to hold them steady as you cut them, put cardboard on the shiny side of the wood so you won’t scratch the surface.  Remove and carefully sand the edges when done.

2.  After cutting and lightly sanding the cuts, paint the edges black using flat black paint (model airplane paint works well).

2.  Place one piece of wood on the table with the finished side up, and stand the other piece of wood up on it about 1¼ “from the front edge of the piece lying on the table. (Fig 1) You may want to vary where you place the top piece depending on your QRP rig and where you want it to sit, but place it so the radio and the stand will be stable while in use. Now mark and attach the two hinges that hold the pieces together, being careful not to let the screws come through the finished side of the top wood piece. If necessary, use one or two small washers to avoid going too far through the top piece. (Fig 2 )

4.  I made a simple pivoting support arm for the backside using a small cable clamp to secure the arm and allow it to pivot. (Fig 2 ) This lets me vary the tilt a little and fold it out of the way for easy carrying when going portable. (Fig 3 ) The pivot arm can be made of any kind of heavy wire. I used hard drawn aluminum ground wire. Coat hanger should do well too.

5.  Drill 1 or 2 holes half way through the bottom plate for the pivot arm to fit into to securely hold the top piece at different angles. (Fig 2)

6.  Place 4 soft rubber bumpers/feet on the bottom of the stand to keep it from sliding around.

7.  Place 2 bumpers/feet on the top front of base where needed to keep the radio from sliding off the stand. (Fig 4)

8.  The last two pictures (Fig 5 and Fig 6), show the Ten Tec 4020 with a Soviet miniature 'Spetsnaz' CW key mounted on a matching piece of the flooring sample like that used to make the tilt stand. These pictures also show a lithium battery powered "iSpeaker" system that plugs into the earphone jack of the 4020 to provide a tiny speaker for the rig. Cost is ~ $10 on eBay and shipped free! The last picture (Fig 6) shows my homebrew mini-manual and a ball point pen to give you a scale of size of the rig, key and outboard speaker.

 Variations:

• You can use ¼” thick, 5” wide unfinished wood pieces from Hobby Lobby or Lowes instead of flooring samples. Cut, assemble and spray paint or finish these as desired. (Note: this unfinished wood will cost more than the 98 cent samples.)

• Substitute 1/2" wood and heavier hinges for a more robust stand. Cut, assemble and spray paint or finish these as desired.

• Substitute cloth for the hinges and glue it in place.

• Eliminate the hinges and the swinging arm altogether by simply cutting and gluing a fixed wood wedge back support to fix the angle and tilt you want. It won't fold up for easy portability, but it should work nicely for home station use.

This little project is nothing extra special, but it is a very effective, inexpensive, and it is a practical accessory for your Ten Tec, Elecraft, or other trail friendly QRP rig! (It also holds a Kindle reader very nicely too!)

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AN OPERATING GUIDE FOR THE TEN TEC R4020  - I made up and abbreviated "Check List" for my Ten Tec to help me remember what button does what. There isn't much to operating the 4020, but this helps make it even easier when I need a quick reference. No guarantee on its use to you, but it works nicely for me. It is provided here as a PDF downloard in an A6 size (~4.13 x 5.83"). you can print this, laminate, cut and staple it to have a small sized, handy 3 page guide for your portable 4020 operations.  TEN TEC R4020 Check List  

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(Click Picture for full size )

A RIG IN A BRIEFCASE

In looking at a QRP rig to take to the lake or to use in an emergency situation, I decided to start with my new Ten Tec R4020. It was a light weight rig that I could pack with all the needed accessories to fit into one regular sized briefcase. The two pictures above show how this project came out. Here is what is in the briefcase looking left to right:

Top Row:  TEN TEC 4020 - Spetsnaz CW Key - Earphones/Accessories - Empty cut-out space is where the AC Wall Wart supply for the 4020 goes.

Bottom Row: TFR Tilt Desk Stand (Described above) and Z817 Antenna Tuner (The TFR foldable desk stand goes under the Z817) - iSpeaker for the 4020 (External speaker for iPhone or in my case, the 4020, from eBay ~$10) - a Foldable LED Book Light for low light operations - a Grundig G6 AM/FM/CW/SSB portable receiver - a Micro Tape Recorder for fast logging and notes.

Log book, pen, paper, my mini manual for the 4020 (See QRP page), and other items are all in the pockets in the top of the briefcase.

The foam polyurethane cut-out inserts pop out and can be changed with a new one cut for any rig or more than one for several rigs. (Cost of 2" foam is about $2.75, 1" costs less. Both are available at Hobby Lobby)  Here is how I did it...

 1. A 1" foam piece is placed on the bottom, and pads the gear that sits on it. It is not glued in, but just cut to size and placed in the case.

 2. The center cut-out piece goes in next and it is made from 2" foam.

 3. A 1" top piece lays on the cut out insert and it is also 1". It has only two cuts and those are for my briefcase 'hinges' to go into. Depending on the case, no cut-out may be needed for this one.

 4. The center section that is the cut-out foam polyurethane is cut out with an electric carving knife. Any really sharp knife will do, but the electric knife makes the best and cleanest cuts.

 5. Place the items going in the case until you are happy with the layout. (Put the heaviest items such as the AC wall wart to the back of the case...leave plenty of padding.) 

 6. Use a small, fine tip marking pen to trace the cut out when you are sure you have it finalized. Cut just outside the pen trace. A wide tip marker works too, but may mark your gear and will very likely leave a mark on the foam if you don't cut outside the trace. This doesn't hurt anything, but just doesn't look as good.

 7. Don't put too many items in the case (I almost over did it on mine) as it will make the foam partitions thin, harder to cut, and it will reduce the 'padding' between items.

8. Be very careful when cutting your insert so you don't cut yourself or cut at an angle that will mess up a partition between items. 

9 Add an antenna of your choice in another bag (I recommend the tri-band Par End Fedz) or a Hamstick on tripod (see below) and you are set. (See eHam Review on Par End Fedz...it is used by Special Ops guys for their operations and it has an unbelievable review record on eHam!)

Options/Notes:

•  Use "Pluck-N-Foam" instead of hobby foam for a stronger, neater, better looking foam insert. It will cost more than hobby foam and it is hard to find, but you can find it on eBay.

•  If you don't have a briefcase handy, check out Harbor Freight stores for a nice sturdy metal equipment cases with foam included at good prices.

•  Substitute CW paddles for a straight key if you prefer.

•  Do not take your briefcase rig on the road or to the field without testing it on your patio or in your back yard. This way, you're only a few steps away from getting what you 'forgot' or what you need to add to your case. I will bet you find that you forgot something the first time you use it! 

Of course, much of what I chose to include in my case is optional and is not really needed for simple operation. I had the room in my case, so I stuffed items in there...  If you substitute an FT-817ND for the Ten Tec 4020, take out the Grundig G6 receiver (the 817 has a great general coverage receiver capability) and add a PSK31 interface such as the Signalink USB and a mic, you could easily have an all band (HF/VHF/UHF), all mode rig in a briefcase. What you can develop here is only limited by your imagination. (I plan to make an insert for my FT-817 and Signalink USB next!)

See an article on this rig in the June 2011 edition of Monitoring Times magazine.

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SET UP A TAPE RECORDER FOR YOUR SHACK

Have you ever heard something on the air that was really interesting and you wished you had recorded it for you personal files?  I know I surely have!  This was the subject of an article I did for World Radio Magazine in the February 2010 issue. It was entitled Boy, I Wished I Had Recorded That and it discussed this topic in some detail covering what you can do with a recorder in the Shack, what equipment might work best for you, how to connect a recorder, and some tips on the set up.  Rather than rewrite the article here, you can also download a .pdf copy from this site on my LF/HF page. (The picture above is a Sony TC-WR350 dual deck recorder I use in my shack.)

You might also want to go to the World Radio Magazine site and check out the original article. You can find it at:   http://www.worldradiomagazine.com/wro_issues/2010/WRO_0210_12-24.pdf  or go to www.worldradiomagazine.com and look for the FEB 20210 issue.

While cassette tapes are a great way to go for everyday fast recordings of what you hear, for long term storage, cassette tapes will deteriorate, become brittle, and can break causing you to lose your recordings. Most estimates I have seen give tape technology about 10 years and then you are on thin ice each time you use it. Making new tape copies of recordings deteriorates quality very quickly. (Make a recording of a recording of a recording and then re-record that and after about 4-5 times, the quality will be gone. Additionally, we know that tape technology is being replaced by new digital technologies so it makes sense to find a different medium for our long term storage needs. I suggest transferring your tapes to CD which provides excellent storage, almost no deterioration of recording quality even with long term storage. If you want to make copies of a CD at a later time, it is easy and free except for the cost of a CD. All you need it a tape recorder, an audio cable, your computer, and a free software download called Audacity. Rather than explain the process here, I suggest you go to YouTube and look at a video  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2nYEhuhx20E which will quickly explain how to do this. It is well worth your time to check out this procedure to learn how to make and store your special radio recordings for the long haul. (If you prefer a commercial software program that converts tapes to CD, and one that comes on CD rather than a download, check out "SoundSaver" available from Amazon.com for ~ $29.95 as of this writing. It also comes with the recorder to computer cable assembly. )

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PVC TRANSPORT TUBES FOR HAMSTICKS -  Transporting your unprotected Hamstick, MFJ, Outbacker or similar antenna in the back of the car, van, or truck is a "guaranteed recipe" for eventually damaging your antenna.   You can easily and quickly make transport cases for your antennas using some PVC tube/pipe, end caps, and a piece of foam pipe insulation.  The cost is minimal and the protection is great.  Here is how to make (2) PVC transport cases:

    PARTS:      (1) 10' section of PVC tube/pipe 1.5" in diameter.

                        (2)  Glue-on PVC end caps for 1.5"  PVC tube.

                        (2)  Screw-on end caps and (2) matching glue-on threaded adaptors for 1.5" PVC tube.

                        (1)  10' length of foam pipe insulation.

                        (4)  Medium sized 1.5" felt stick-on pads for chair/table legs.

                        (1)  Can of General Purpose PVC cement. 

Here is the general idea to put each transport case together for a Hamstick type antenna.  I recommend you read all the way through this again just before you start to cut and glue:

1. Cut a PVC tube to fit the length of the Hamstick (with antenna tip removed!).  NOTE:  IF you use a 'quick disconnect' for your mount and whip, make sure you allow for this extra length when you cut the tube!   Measure twice...cut once!

2. Put a self sticking felt pad on the inside of the glue-on cap and one on the inside of the screw-on cap.   This will protect the antenna from hitting the two ends as it slides back and forth inside the tube.

3. Cement the glue-on end cap on one end of the tube.

4. With the screw-on cap removed, cement the screw-on adaptor on the other end of the tube...DO NOT screw the cap on the adaptor before, during, or after this step for about 10 minutes. This will let the PVC cement dry completely, less you wind up getting the screw-on cap cemented in place.  If you do get glue on the cap and it touches the threads, it will bond instantly and permanently and you will have to start all over with new materials.

5. Insert the foam pipe insulation in the PVC tube and cut it to fit the length of the tube you just made.

6. After checking to INSURE there is no wet PVC cement on the screw-on threads or the end cap, screw on the end cap to see how it all fits.  That's it!  This completes the construction of your transport tube.

NOTES:

• Using a permanent marking pen, mark on the tube side and the screw-on end cap what band each tube is for such as "40 M, 20 M", etc.  This helps you find the right antenna fast.

• Mark your Hamstick antenna tips for the band and length to insert them as they look alike.  White tape wrapped around your antenna tip will show you how far to insert your tips into the shafts for each antenna.  Write the band on the tape. 

• You can also paint your transport tubes, but if you do, be sure and use PVC approved paint or the paint will flake off since most regular paints will not adhere well to PVC.  Camouflage paint looks nice, but it can also help you lose a tube or end cap in the field if you set it down... instead, consider using a bright color paint such as international orange! You can also leave the tubes white and add decals all over them, write your callsign and name on the tube, etc...

• Do not glue the transport tubes directly together to make a cluster for carrying as it makes the screw on end caps hard to screw on/off.  If you have 2 or 3 transport tubes and intend to always carry them together, you might consider placing a couple of 4"-6" pieces of scrap 1" or 2" PVC tubing between the transport tubes and use PVC cement to glue these in place to make the tubes into a 'cluster' for ease of transport. 

• A discarded shoulder strap, sling, or web strap from a sports bag, etc., makes a good carrying sling or carrying handle. 

• As always in Ham Radio, add, delete, change, or modify these ideas to suit your needs. 

 (This project appeared in OCT '09, pg 60, 'Hints and Kinks' section of QST).

                Fig.1                       

Shown above (Fig.1) is a picture of a Hamstick Transport Tube for 40 meters.  This picture shows the the foam pipe insulation (pulled out for you to see), and the Hamstick shaft and tip pulled out. A felt stick on pad (like the kind that goes on the bottom of chair legs) is inserted inside the screw on caps to protect the antenna from hitting the ends of the tubes during transport. These make very rugged transport tubes for your valuable antennas and these are inexpensive, fast, and very easy to make. 

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TRIPOD MOUNTED HAMSTICKS - I had always wanted to try a small tripod mounted whip for QRP just to see how it worked for short duration, portable operation.  Finally, I made a version of this setup using a discarded photo tripod with a Lakeview # 081 Tri Mount attached at the top of the tripod.  I also made another version (not shown) using a satellite dish tripod with a short piece of antenna support mast added to give it a bit more height.  This latter version used a home brew right angle bracket held on the tripod with a pipe clamp.  A 3/8" aluminum plate was bolted onto the right angle bracket and the antenna mount was then added to hold the antenna similar to the Lakeview #081 Tri Mount.  A bolt and wing nut was added to the plate to attach the counterpoise.  I use Hamstick antennas, but other antennas such as an Outbacker should work well in a similar fashion.

A basic addition to the tripod mounted Hamstick is to use at least one 20'-25' long 1/2" braid as a counterpoise.  (Two or three such counterpoises are even better.)  These connect on the antenna mounting bracket itself to a mounting screw.  You can also put a Banana plug (male/female) on the mount and counterpoise for fast connect/disconnect.  In my experience, I have noted that failure to use a good counterpoise will likely result in you talking to yourself most of the time!  I use a carefully measured Hamstick that is set for the exact frequency to be used (I use the QRP CW calling freqs as a my base frequency).  I have Hamsticks  for 40, 20, and 15 meters.  Set your antenna up clear of nearby objects if you are on a condo deck, in a yard, on top of a picnic table, etc.  I have only used my set up on CW, and I have found it will definitely work!  My very first try with the tripod and antenna was when I set it up on my living room coffee table with a single counterpoise stretched out across the floor was using an FT-817 on CW. I quickly got a K6 in California. I was running 5 watts and we had a nice 599 QSO on 40 meters.  Nothing to write home about, but I must admit that considering what I was using and where I was using it, I was impressed. It sort of made me feel like I was using a spy rig! Hi! 

While certainly not the best portable antenna set up you might use, these antennas do work when you need a very fast, small footprint system, or you don't have trees for supports.  Of course such antennas are extremely portable and stealthy too.

TRIPOD/HAMSTICK NOTES: 

• Keep a short coax run between your rig and the antenna.

• Use 1-4 counterpoises for better results. Just reel them out equally distant apart on top of the ground. See my Antenna page to see how tape measures can be used for this.

• Pre-adjust and mark your Hamstick for your favorite operating frequency to give you a quick set up with a known low SWR.

• Watch for little (or big!) hands and feet touching the antenna or getting tangled on the counterpoise(s) when you set up.

• For outside use, consider securing the tripod base to the ground or deck so it won't blow over or get knocked over. A small bungee cord from the bottom center of the tripod to the deck, table, or the ground to keep the tripod standing upright.  You can attach the other end of the bungee cord to anything heavy or use a small screw-in-the-ground anchor.  I also found a 20 penny nail pushed in the ground will work as a good anchor for this use.

• To hold the tripod legs together for transport, use a length of Velcro strip or a bungee cord.

• Make some PVC tube transport cases for your antennas to avoid transport damage (see Hamstick Transport Tube article above).

• An inexpensive short rifle case makes a great carrying case for the tripod, counterpoises, bungee cords, tie downs, etc.

The tripod pictures show a camera tripod with the Lakeview #081 antenna mount and an antenna fast disconnect attached.  Note the small bolts/nuts on each leg of the tripod on the left.  The friction locks had broken and would not hold the legs, so it had been discarded.  I got it out of the trash, drilled holes in the legs and used bolts through the legs to recycle it into a neat antenna mount! Hey, one man's trash is another man's antenna! Also shown are optional fast disconnects used on the tripod for quick and easy change of antennas.

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A LIGHTED 'MODEL' HAM SHACK TO HOUSE YOUR CODE PRACTICE OSCILLATOR (CPO)

I wanted a good quality, nice sounding CPO for the Shack so I could play around with my keys, keyers and paddles. I also hoped I might be able to interest my grandkids in learning CW. The CPO I chose for the job was the nice sounding Morse Express T-Tone CPO. Rather than house it in the ubiquitous project box, I decided to put it in a box made to look like a miniature Ham Shack. It would be a great box to hold the CPO circuit board and its speaker plus the model 'Shack' would be an enjoyable conversation piece.

The little ‘Shack’ is made from ¼” project board trim strips (from Hobby Lobby) and is simply 3 walls (back is open) and a roof cut to a suitable size, glued together, and stained. A P-Touch label maker (from Staples) placed on cardboard was used to make the signs over door and window. I covered the roof with a green non-skid shelf liner (hot glued to the wood) to give it a shingled look.

My model ‘Shack’ has a lift off roof which provides an open top and open back to allow for easy internal access. The open back will provide ease of hearing the little CPO speaker if mounted internally (I chose a powered external speaker for more volume). The little 4 element yagi on the roof is made from paper clips soldered together and is the ‘Shack’s’ main antenna (I probably need to work on the SWR!). The little yagi constantly revolves at a rate of 1 rpm just like a real beam adding a nice touch to the model. This is done by a simple AA battery powered clock movement (clock motor). The shaft of the yagi is connected to the second hand clock shaft by using a piece of stripped insulation from a wire to connect the two shafts together. 

A red flashing LED is mounted just to the left over the front window shows that the radio operator is [ON-THE-AIR]. A white LED mounted well behind the window provides the interior lighting so you can see the CW operator hard at work catching a ‘new one!’ The semi-transparent window is made from a plastic document protector placed over a thin tissue paper photo copy that shows the ‘Old Man’ inside. The side windows are paper squares that are framed in with wooden strips and are not translucent. A simple mini-toggle switch on the back left corner turns the red and white LEDs and the rotating yagi On/Off. The lights are powered by a pair of AA, C, or D cells and the CPO runs on a 9VDC battery. (I decided not to use a DC wall wart supply for these needs so it wouldn't be tied down to an AC cord).

The model is totally portable and to use it as a CPO, I simply take it off the top shelf of my desk and place it at my operating position. A patch cord goes from the key jack of the CPO to the “DZE Box” described at the top of this PROJECT page, or I can plug a key into it at the operating position. The "DZE Box" allows me to select any one of my key/bug/paddles as I enjoy the CPO and the model 'Shack.'

You can make your own similar model 'Shack' of any size and any design you choose and inside you can put a CPO, a small 40m/20m QRP transmitter, a QRP 10m Beacon, a speaker, or whatever you think would be neat.  You might even put a real photograph of you at your rig in the window! If you don't want to build a model 'Shack' from scratch, just pick out a small bird house of whatever design you like from Hobby Lobby or similar store, cover the front bird entrance (hole) with a door, and go from there. This could make a nice model 'Shack' with minimum work! However you choose to do it, the model can be a fun item for a shelf in your real Shack that will be a conversation piece with your visitors!

UPCOMING PROJECTS TO BE ACCOMPLISHED SOON

•  N0XAS PICO KEYER-PLUS ULTRA LOW POWER KEYER

•  MOUNT RYAN COMMUNICATIONS SW-1 40M CW TRANSCEIVER IN A SPECIAL ENCLOSURE

•  PORTABLE 12VDC BATTERY BOX BUILT IN ALTOIDS TINS

•  BUILD SUPER TUNA TRANSCEIVER FOR 40M, 30M, AND 10M

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